The Markets Of Warwick Triangle

 

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Warwick Triangle

 

Around the Berea Road Station in central Durban and the flyover passes marking the beginning of the N3 highway is a fascinating dishelved mess of markets known as the Warwick Triangle. These markets are so raw and alive they make the infamous Tepito Mercado in Mexico City look like Portobello Road market in Notting Hill. One day I decided to go on a tour of this part of town with a local guide from the tour firm Markets Of Warwick.

 

The Bead Market

This market has been temporarily relocated onto the narrow sidewalk of one of the busy flyover passes. Walking here was a challenge and trying desperately to be on your guard – even with a guide!

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The Bead Market

 

The Impepho Market

Entering this market was like walking through a post war bombed out Barbican or Westway. Here traditional Zulu women sell impepho and bowling size balls of red and white limes mined from iNdwedwe, north of the city.

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The Impepho Market

 

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Impepho

 

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White lime

 

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Red lime

 

The Brook Street Market

This market sells mainly textiles…

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Brook Street Market

 

The Berea Station Market

This is the place to go for pirate DVDs, CDs, shoes and designer clobber at rock bottom prices as well as traditional Zulu King Shaka spears and shields…

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Berea Station market

 

The Early Morning Market

This market is known as the Mother Market and has now been going for 100 years. This is the place to go for fruit and vegetables as well as spices. The quality of the fruit and veg is better than what you’d find in Pick n Pay and Checkers and at a fraction of the price. The spices here are cheaper than those in nearby Victoria market…

 

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Inside the Early Morning Market

 

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Abundant vegΒ 

 

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Spices at rock bottom prices

 

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Early Morning Market trader

 

Bovine Head Cooking Market

I think if I took Morrissey here he’d have a stroke. This is not a place for animal rights activists. Yet Francis Bacon would be captivated. This place is raw and visceral. The severed heads and other body parts of cows and goats lie openly in green rubbish bins and black rubbish sacks – life here is cheaper than table salt.

 

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Inside the Bovine Head Cooking Market

 

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Super gourmet food I just can’t wait to dive into

 

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Too much

 

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Look away

 

The Herb Market

My guide explicitly tells me not to take photos of the herbs as I’d be ‘diminishing their potency’ – the last thing I want to do is incur the wrath of the traditional Zulu people so I only manage one cheeky photo from the entrance. As well as traditional herbs and plant extracts, one can find small used whiskey bottles now experiencing a new lease of life carrying the contents of different animal fats including those extracted from the Big Five.

 

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The entrance to the herb market

 

by Nicholas Peart

23rd June 2016

(all rights reserved)

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6 thoughts on “The Markets Of Warwick Triangle

    • I love the markets of India! Chandi Chowk bazaar in Old Delhi is quite something. I am returning to India later this year after an absence of almost 10 years and I am very much looking forward to visiting
      those markets again πŸ™‚

      Liked by 1 person

      • Chandni Chowk scared me ! A labyrinth like I had never seen before πŸ™‚
        Markets of Bombay are quite something too , but nothing beats Chandni Chowk and those electrical wires looking over your head !!!

        Liked by 1 person

      • Chandhi Chowk is unique as far as world markets go! I love that part of Delhi and also the dishelvedness of the Parharganj where most backpackers stay – although perhaps it’s a bit more cleaned up now. India is a country that is changing at such a fast pace. Even though my trip through certain parts of India could be challenging and high pressure, I never once felt threatened or unsafe. I could walk around Delhi or Mumbai late at night and never once worry about someone trying to mug me. Unfortunately in the big cities in South Africa you can’t walk around so freely at night

        Like

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